Best embroidery thread for beginners: weight, fiber and bobbins explained

Start with 40 wt polyester embroidery thread: Brother’s manual calls for 40-weight rayon or polyester for most embroidery, and polyester is colorfast even with chlorine bleach. Pair it with the bobbin thread your manual specifies (Brother’s bobbin case is set for 90 weight) or prewound bobbins made for your exact machine. Buy a modest starter range of colors, then add shades as your projects need them. Thread is the part of embroidery people see, so it’s tempting to buy a giant box of colors right away. Before color, though, two choices matter more: the weight of the top thread and what goes in the bobbin. Get those right and almost any brand of embroidery thread will work on a home machine.

This guide covers the standard weight, how polyester, rayon, cotton and metallic compare, bobbin thread and prewound bobbins, and how to build a starter color range without overbuying.

What weight of embroidery thread should you buy?

Buy 40 wt. Brother’s manual says that for most embroidery applications, the upper thread should be 40-weight rayon or polyester embroidery thread. Sulky’s thread guide calls 40 wt rayon the standard that most digitizers use, and Madeira recommends #40 Polyneon for general use.

That matters because designs are digitized for a thread thickness. A design’s stitch spacing assumes 40 wt coverage, so a much thicker thread can crowd and break, and a much thinner one can leave gaps. Thread weight numbers run backward: the higher the number, the finer the thread.

Polyester vs rayon vs cotton vs metallic

Polyester

Polyester is the safest first thread. Madeira describes it as durable and colorfast, and says its Polyneon resists chlorine bleach and suits uniforms. OESD says Isacord is 100% polyester, 40 wt, colorfast to detergent, chlorine bleach and light, and has twice the strength of rayon.

Choose polyester if you’re stitching kids’ clothes, towels, uniforms or anything that will be washed hard.

Rayon

Rayon is known for sheen. Madeira describes it as high sheen and vibrant color, and Sulky notes it is colorfast with detergents that don’t contain chlorine or optical brighteners. Madeira lists old rayon thread among the causes of thread breaks, so don’t buy more than you’ll use.

Choose rayon if you want maximum shine on items that won’t see bleach, such as wall hangings or decor.

Cotton

Cotton gives a matte, natural look that Madeira suggests for heirloom work. Sulky notes it fuzzes and shrinks slightly. It’s a specialty thread, not a starter thread.

Metallic

Metallic thread is the hardest to run. Sulky recommends a 90/14 needle, slowing down, lowering top tension one or two numbers, a vertical spool pin with a felt pad, and avoiding stiff, coarse stabilizers. Madeira also advises the least tension possible and a reduced speed.

Skip metallic until you can stitch regular designs without thread breaks.

What thread goes in the bobbin?

Use an embroidery bobbin thread, not your top thread. Bobbin thread is lighter so the back of the design stays flat and doesn’t build bulk.

Brother’s manual says to use the included embroidery bobbin thread or a recommended embroidery bobbin thread, and that the included bobbin case is set for 90 weight bobbin thread. Sulky’s guide describes its Bobbin thread as 60 wt spun polyester. Those are different weights from different makers, so use the weight your manual names. If your machine is set up for one weight and you switch to another, you may need to adjust tension.

Brother lists using a non-recommended bobbin thread as one cause of upper thread breaks. White bobbin thread works for most designs; black is useful for dark fabrics where the back may show.

Prewound bobbins or bobbin thread on a spool?

Prewound bobbins save time. Madeira says prewound bobbins give consistent tension, and that filament bobbin thread produces minimal lint while spun thread produces more.

The catch is fit. Bobbins come in different sizes, and a prewound bobbin must match your machine. Brother lists its PWB350 prewound bobbins as size 11.5, 90 weight, 78/2 polyester, “Designed for use in Brother embroidery-only machines.” Brother doesn’t make that claim for combo machines on that page, so if you own a sewing-and-embroidery combo, check your manual or Brother’s accessory list before buying.

Buy bobbin thread on a spool if you’re not sure of your bobbin class yet. You can wind it onto the bobbins that came with the machine.

How many colors should you start with?

You don’t need every color. Start with a modest set of 40 wt polyester that covers:

• Black and white: outlines, lettering and highlights in almost every design.
• A gray and a brown: shading, animals and neutral text.
• Primary and secondary colors: red, blue, yellow, green, orange, purple.
• A light and dark version of the colors you use most.
• Pink and a skin-tone range if you stitch characters or kids’ designs.

Then buy by project. When a design calls for a shade you don’t have, buy that spool. This builds a collection around what you actually stitch.

Stick to one brand at first. Shade numbers differ between brands, and conversion between them is approximate. The thread color matching guide explains why, and the thread palette tool helps you plan colors before you shop.

Check before you buy a thread set

• It says embroidery thread and 40 wt, not all-purpose sewing thread.
• The spool size fits your machine’s spool pin.
• The brand sells individual spools in the same line, so you can replace colors.
• The set includes a printed or downloadable color chart with shade numbers.

Which needle goes with which thread?

Brother recommends a 75/11 needle for most embroidery and a 90/14 if the machine isn’t stitching well on heavy fabric. Sulky recommends 90/14 for metallic thread. Schmetz describes its embroidery needles as having an enlarged eye and wide groove for rayon, polyester and specialty threads. The embroidery needles guide has a full fabric-to-needle table.

Thread problems that aren’t the thread’s fault

Thread often gets blamed for problems that start elsewhere. Brother lists incorrect threading, knots or tangles, upper tension that’s too tight, a bent or dull needle and a non-recommended bobbin thread as causes of upper thread breaks. Madeira adds burrs in the thread path, poor digitizing and missing backing.

Before you switch brands, rethread the machine, change the needle and check your bobbin. See embroidery thread breaking and bobbin thread showing on top for step-by-step fixes.

Which thread should you use for each project?

Use this as a quick decision table, built from the maker guidance above.

Freestanding lace is the main exception to the light-bobbin rule, because both sides of the lace are visible.

What to buy first

• A 40 wt polyester embroidery thread set with a basic color range.
• Embroidery bobbin thread in the weight your manual names, or prewound bobbins that match your machine.
• 75/11 embroidery needles, plus a few ballpoints for knits.

The embroidery supplies checklist puts thread in order with stabilizer, tools and everything else. Browse more supply guides in the supplies topic.

What to buy

The supplies this guide calls for, with what to check before buying. Prices change often — confirm with the seller.

• 40 wt polyester embroidery thread set — A starter range of colors in the weight most home designs are digitized for.
• Embroidery bobbin thread or prewound bobbins — Lighter bobbin thread keeps the back of the design flat and reduces bulk.
• Embroidery needles (75/11) — Embroidery needles have a larger eye and groove that protect rayon and polyester thread at speed.